Grace Kellys style - Telegraph
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Grace Kelly's style
From 'Mad Men' to the V&A, the style and spirit of the 1950s Hollywood icon are everywhere, says Bronwyn Cosgrave.
BY Bronwyn Cosgrave |31 March 2010
Life magazine narrated 1954 as the "Year of Grace" because, during that year, Grace Kelly testified Hollywood's top woman box-office attraction, starring in no less than 5 membranes, including The Country Girl, a mighty domestic drama for which she won the best actress Oscar.Fast-forward to 2010 and it is different big moment for Kelly. This season, a different range of designers, such as Erdem and Prada, have supposed collections that reference her flirty femininity, as well as her signature lustered glamour. And while Mad Men 's sensational blonde, Betty Draper, has been drawing care for her Kelly-esque see of twinsets and pearls, the V&A will be celebrating Her Serene Highness with "Grace Kelly: Style Icon".
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The exhibition is an adaptation of "The Grace Kelly Years",
Babolat Aero Racquets discount, which was originally staged at Monte Carlo's Grimaldi Forum in 2007. Frédéric Mitterand - nephew of sometime French president Fran?ois Mitterand - spent two annuals conceiving the inaugural retrospective, and the V&A will display the selection he made from a meticulously maintained archive holding 250 of Kelly's dresses at the Prince's Palace of Monaco.
Jenny Lister, form curator at the V&A, has made its exhibition solitary by investigating Kelly's style via three terse sections that reflect seminal stages in her life: that, as an actress, a bride and a princess. Although the Paris couture Kelly flaunted as a monarch makes spectacular outlooking, the key to her beg is in the Hollywood finery on display.
Take, case in point, an elegant coat-and-dress ensemble with knee-length hemline by Oleg Cassini. Born in France in 1913, the late Cassini, who was briefly engaged to Kelly, worked as a Hollywood costume designer in the Forties, before creating his New York fashion empire in the Sixties. "I created the Grace Kelly look," he constantly stated.
He surely groomed her for fashion greatness by encouraging her to flaunt her model-perfect, size 10 figure in flattering, artistic clothes, rather than masquerade it in the frumpy accidentals and thick horn-rimmed spectacles she habitually wore off-screen.
"She dressed favor a schoolteacher," he told People journal of his first meet with Kelly, while she was an up-and-coming actress at MGM. "She neutralised her loveliness because she ambitioned to be thought of for an actress. I told her she could be both. She had to put a little ###### in her clothes."
Although Cassini fashioned Kelly's manner, it was Alfred Hitchcock who honed it. One of the exhibit's stand-out chips is a seductive dark chiffon evening gown which Kelly wore in Rear Window. Although it was the handiwork of Edith Head, the commemorated Paramount Pictures costume designer confessed she deferred apt the director's vision.
Head also produced Kelly's wardrobe for Hitchcock's other films in which she played ice-cool, society girls, including Dial M for Murder and To Catch a Thief.
Hitchcock "underwent no rivals for total legislature on his creations",
Prince EXO3 red, wrote Donald Spoto, his biographer. In his recent writing, Spellbound at Beauty: Alfred Hitchcock and his Leading Ladies, Spoto reveals how the manager was obsessively devoted to creating Kelly as a "trustworthy mongrel of refinement and ######", noting: "Hitch was almost clinical in his accurate minds for Grace's wardrobe. There was a reason for each style."
The aquamarine satin from which Head made Kelly's red-carpet gown because the premiere of The Country Girl , which Kelly also wore to claim her Oscar, was the arrange of pastel screen Hitchcock felt best suited his ideal blonde.
Hitchcock also spearheaded the Kelly handbag phenomenon in 1954 by granting Head to acquire accessories for To Catch a Thief at Hermès in Paris. "Like two girls in an ice-cream mart, we fell in love with anything we saw," recollected Head. Two years after, Hermès rechristened the boxy handbag, created in 1938 and phoned the Haut à Courroie , as the "Kelly", after Kelly accustomed it to shield her productive abdomen from prying paparazzi. The photograph appeared in Life and launched landslide bargains, antagonism its price of ￡3,
Timberland 6 Inch boots sale,590, and of the 32 styles of handbags Hermès creates today, the Kelly remains its best-seller.
Helen Rose, MGM's costume designer, also conceived ground-breaking looks in which Kelly mow a dash on shade, from the safari chic she sported in the 1953 black venture Mogambo (a forerunner of Yves Saint Laurent's seminal 1969 La Saharienne collection), to the emphatic fit-and-flare frocks she flaunted in High Society .
Rose also built Kelly's wedding wear, which was made from 25 yards of silk taffeta, old rose-point lace and pearls.
But for Kelly, her wedding was entire almost business. In exchange for terminating her compact, she granted MGM preferential film rights to produce The Wedding in Monaco , a half-hour documentary chronicling the imperial nuptials, and as the laboratory bankrolled her lavish Monte Carlo wedding, it also paid for her bridal gown.
Grace Kelly: Style Icon, April 17- September 26, V&A, 020 7942 2000
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