Welcome to the filmic fashion earth of Britain's maximum avant-garde young designer,
bose in-ear headphones, Gareth Pugh.
BY Hilary Alexander, Fashion Director in Paris |04 March 2009
Pugh, who trained as a ballet dancer in his countryman Sunderland, where his dad is a policeman, has a normal melodramatic streak. But he equally has a powerful urge to communicate what he is attempting to do with his designs in an enduring means.
In a black-painted and curtained warehouse in the 10th arrondissement of Paris, a hundred all but people sit on pews before a white screen. The chamber fills with dry ice,
Kaylee Defer in Ksubi_3056, joining to the spooky air.
This, he has certainly achieved. As a New Generation maverick at London Fashion Week two annuals ago, he was the excellent star from the outset. Flocks of students and street-style fashion-wannabe's crowded his catwalk shows, onward with the fashion press, including American Vogue's Anna Wintour, and customers.
Paris Fashion Week: Gareth Pugh - Telegraph
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Paris Fashion Week: Gareth Pugh
Hilary Alexander reviews the Gareth Pugh autumn/winter 09/10 collection from Paris...
There are square caps,
Green Gucci Group_2583, brims which pivot around her favor dervishes, smokes of sheer black chiffon, the dreadful sparkle of thousands of metal spikes - fixes - on an 'Iron Maiden' jacket. Then she works alphabetical, withdrawing into a golden orb, which becomes a large, triangular mantle, for she mushrooms to her feet.
As a piece of film it namely eminent and mighty, peerless conveying the sense of modern medievalism which Pugh's clothing seem apt include. It is too a lot cheaper apt produce than a full-scale form show with 30 alternatively 40 models, a fact which has no ran the consideration of this canny 27-year-old, who showed his menswear collection here, less than two months ago.
Suddenly,
mbt sneakers, the screen fills with a disembodied brain and chest: A model, semi-topless, in a stretch T-shirt, composed of alternate stripes of black and bare meat. As she rotates, her long, blonde ponytail swings, and, in tempo, her lower half, sliced a foot to the left, by digital trickery,
cheap puma shoes, sways in a long black skirt.
Hogben then lingered up as 4 days and nights to mow, amend and digitally "tweak" the footage into the powerful image she had envisaged.
Here, in Paris, he has yet found his black, patent, spike-encrusted, boot-clad feet. The scores of "Gareth Groupies", in about identikit "Goth-Rock Geek' get-up, hovering around the Passage du Dèsir, hoping to blag their way into the screenings this evening, was more than proof. This lad has a cult following.
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There is breaking music, like the sound of a guillotine falling. The screen turns into double, triple, quadruple images of the girl. Now she is in a black tunic and musketeer boots; now she is marching, in mirror picture, across the screen,
abercrombie outlet, yet on the spot.
The film was made on Friday, in London, by the young cinematographer, Ruth Hogben, who has been dreaming of working with Pugh for two years. The model was Woman's Natasa Vojnovic. Simon Costin designed the set and also held the carpet-dryer which whooshed the long skirts and trousers into billowing fashions around her as she busted her shakes.
The melody intensifies. Suddenly, she is in Kendo mode, clad in 'hakama', the orthodox Japanese, ultra-wide, black trousers,
cheap nikes, which conceal her feet. She strikes martial craft poses,
prince tennis rackets, which are shown in repeat. She becomes more balletic, swirling in flamenco-style, marquee-siized black skirts.