programming and human factors
by Jeff Atwood Building a Personal computer, Component I
Over the following number of days, I am going to be creating Scott Hanselman's personal computer. My goal nowadays is more modest: build a minimal technique that boots.
I'd prefer to dispel the myth that developing computer systems is risky, or in any way challenging or complex. If you're able to set jointly a LEGO kit, it is possible to set jointly a Computer from parts. It really is dead straightforward, like snapping collectively a lot of LEGO bricks. Properly, largely. Have you ever observed how difficult a number of people LEGO kits are?
Granted, creating pcs just isn't for everyone. There are a good amount of other things you might desire to do together with your time, like, say, shelling out time together with your youngsters, or discovering a treatment for cancer. That is why men and women get pre-assembled computers from Dell. But when you'll need fine-grained handle more than exactly what is inside of your Computer, in the event you want a deeper comprehension of how the hardware fits jointly and works,
Cheap Office Professional 2007, then building a Personal computer is a exciting task to consider on. You can simply match or defeat Dell's costs typically,
Office Professional Plus, even though building a superior rig -- and you'll learn some thing along the way in which, as well.
Here's the complete set of elements we ordered, per the element list. The CPU and memory boxes aren't demonstrated, sadly, due to the fact I had previously opened individuals by the time I took this picture. Whoops!
All you'll need is really a handful of fundamental tools to build this Laptop. I usually use needle-nose pliers, wire cutters, as well as a small phillips screwdriver.
Before we get started, allow me to share a couple of essential things I've learned although creating PCs:
Personal computer components are surprisingly durable. They aren't fragile. You don't have to baby them. So often I see individuals handle laptop or computer parts as if they're sacred, priceless relics. Although I don't think you should play "catch" with your new Core 2 Quad processor, it really is also not going to explode into flames in case you look at it the wrong way. You don't have to tiptoe around the construct. Just be responsible and use common sense. I've done some appalling factors to laptop or computer hardware in my day, truly boneheaded stuff, and I think I've broken all of two or three items in the last 10 years.
The risk of static discharge is overblown. I never wear anti-static wristbands, and I've yet to electrocute any components with static electricity. Never. Not once. However, I always touch a metal surface ahead of handing laptop or computer components-- and which is a good habit for you to cultivate as well.
Be patient, and don't force it. These rare times I've damaged components, it really is due to the fact I rushed myself and forced a thing that I thought should fit-- despite all the warning signs. I've learned through hard experience that "maybe I require to use lots of additional force" is never the right answer when it comes to building PCs. Take a deep breath. Count to ten. Refer to the manual, and double-check your work.
I always build up the motherboard first. Place the motherboard on top of the anti-static bag it came in so it's easier to work on. Slot in the CPU and snap in the memory sticks. We're using four sticks here, so every slot is populated. However, if you're only using two sticks of memory, be sure they are in the correct paired slots for dual-channel operation. Should you require advice, the motherboard manual is a good reference for basic installation steps.
Continue constructing up the motherboard by installing the CPU cooler. I strongly recommend buying an aftermarket CPU cooler based on a heatpipe tower design, as they wildly outperform the stock Intel coolers. This particular model we chose for Scott's develop is the Scythe Mine, but I'm also a fan of the Scythe Infinity and Scythe Ninja Plus. (You'll be able to see the Ninja Plus on my work rig.)
It's important to install the CPU cooler correctly, otherwise you risk frying your CPU. Refer closely to the heatsink instructions. Don't forget to place a bit of the heatsink paste (included with the cooler) on the surface of the CPU ahead of installing. These larger heatsinks can be quite heavy, so be sure you've followed the installation instructions to the letter and secured it firmly to the motherboard. Check the orientation of the heatsink so the fan blows "out" if possible, e.g., towards the back of the motherboard, where the case exhaust fans usually are.
Now let's build up the case to accept the motherboard. We chose the Antec P182 case for Scott's create. This case is unique; it's a collaborative venture between the well-known case vendor Antec and Silent Pc Review, one of my favorite Laptop enthusiast websites.
This is the second version of the case, which reflects a number of design tweaks over the original P180. It really is a little expensive, but the P182 oozes quality and attention to detail. It can be probably the single best designed case I've ever worked on. But don't consider my word for it; see reviews at AnandTech and SilentPCReview.
Some cases are sold with power supplies, but the higher end situations, such as the P182, typically are not. For Scott's construct, we chose the Corsair HX series power supply, which can be a rebranded and tweaked Seasonic. It is considered one of the best quiet and efficient power supplies on the market, which is why it tops the listing of recommended PSUs at SilentPCReview.
I opened the opposite side of the case to gain access to the PSU cage from both sides, installed the PSU in the cage, and threaded the power cables up through the opening in the middle.
If you have cats, like we do, you have curious cat helpers. However, cat helpers aren't all that... helpful.
Now install the backplate included with the motherboard. Every backplate is different since every motherboard is different. It is held in by pressure; just snap it in firmly around the edges.
It's finally time to place the motherboard in the case. Clear room in the case compartment by moving any errant cables out of the way in which and stowing them. Make sure the screw holes on the motherboard line up with the pre-installed screw mount standoffs in the case. In our P182, everything matched up perfectly out of the box.
Angle the motherboard down slowly and line up the ports to the backplate, then gently let the motherboard down to rest against the standoffs. Loosely line up the motherboard screw holes to the motherboard standoffs.
Find the packet of screws included with the case, and use the appropriate screws to secure the motherboard to the case standoffs.
Now let's connect the power supply to the motherboard. You can find two power connectors on modern motherboards, so be sure you've connected them both. Don't worry, the connectors are keyed; you can't install them incorrectly and blow up your Pc. As you can see here, I threaded the power connectors along the back side of the motherboard platform. That's one of the many nifty little design features of the P182 case.
Before we can boot up, we require to connect the power and reset switches so they work. This component can be a little fiddly. Find the cable with the labelled power,
Microsoft Office Professional, reset, and LED connectors from the case,
Office 2010 Standard, then refer to the motherboard manual to see where the appropriate motherboard front panel connector pins are.
Connect each front panel wire to the specific motherboard front panel pins individually. Make sure you connect them to the right location, but orientation of these connectors doesn't matter. This is where the needlenose pliers come in handy unless you have nimble (and tiny) fingers. Why this just isn't a universally standard keyed block connector by now is beyond me.
We will need some kind of video output to see if our laptop or computer can boot,
Windows 7 Professional, so let's install a video card. Scott's not a ################ gamer, so I went for one thing midrange, a set of two NVIDIA 8600GTS cards. They're an excellent blend of performance and the latest DX10 and high-definition features, while using relatively little power.
Don't forget to connect the 6-pin video card power connector if your video card requires it! This can be a common mistake that I've made a lot more than once. Our power supply has modular connectors, so I snapped in one of the two 6-pin power connectors and threaded it up to the video card.
We're ready for the moment of truth: does it boot? I attached a power cord to the power supply, hooked up a utility 15" LCD I keep around for testing, and then pressed the power button.
Success! I know "reboot and select proper boot device" doesn't look like much, but it means everything is working. We've just built a minimum Pc that boots up. It can be a small step that we'll build on tomorrow.
Getting this technique from a pile of parts to bootable state took about two hours. Like I promised -- straightforward! Writing it up is taking almost as long as actually doing it. This was a slow develop for me simply because I was extra cautious with Scott's elements, and I was stopping to get frequent pictures. With some practice, it really is possible to create a Pc much a lot more quickly-- even in under ten minutes.
Office 2010 Standard Coding Horror Building a PC,
Linear Mode
