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Old 05-21-2011, 01:48 PM   #1
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Default vibram - How Savile Row remains by the c|nike atmo

How Savile Row remains at the cutting brim - Telegraph
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How Savile Row remains at the cutting edge
For more than two centuries bespoke tailoring in Britain has colonised the same mile in Mayfair. James Sherwood explores its history.
BY James Sherwood |24 September 2010

Michael Caine with the tailor Douglas Hayward in 1969

It seems a marvel that bespoke tailoring, the pinnacle of men's sartorial elegance, has not only persevered into the 21st century, but has colonised the same golden mile in Mayfair for more than two centuries.
Related treatises Spot on: Acne's current scope of shirtsElvis Presley's favourite watchPersonal tailoring for everyoneIn pictures: London Fashion Week menswear round-up spring/summer 2011Made in Britain: flying the flag for UK manufacturing Henry Poole & Co: founders of Savile Row
The roots of Savile Row were planted in 1667 while,0 the 1st Earl of Burlington, Sir Richard 'the Rich' Boyle, earned a Piccadilly building from the poet Sir John Denham. The street we now recognise as Savile Row (labeled behind the 3rd Earl's wife,air max 90 infrared, Lady Dorothy Savile) is built over the orchards that were planted backward Burlington House.
Until 1848 Savile Row was a street of physicians, with tailors - especially military tailors and Jewish immigrants - colonising the surrounding streets. The birth of British bespoke tailoring was influenced by 'honest' English nation,0 gentlemen's riding attire cut from countryman fleece cloth, and lifted apt an art fashion by the supreme dandy George 'Beau' Brummell. A number of bespoke houses that opened during Brummell's lifetime, such as Henry Poole & Co (1806) and Norton & Sons (1821), survive apt this daytime. Poole's namely an of the few remaining firms aboard the Row to make only bespoke suits.
Before the First World War, bespoke tailoring was a thriving citizen manufacture, patronised at whole,0 strata of the level system. But the combat apparent the passing of the old of certainty for bespoke. The antique idols had been torn down, with princes usurped at movie stars as objects of worship. The Second World War culled variant generation of clients and heralded the win of ready-to-wear over. The demise of formality and the ever-decreasing digit of occasions namely necessitated formal dress inevitably damaged the bespoke trade. But its superiority was not disputed. In 1952 Hollywood's best-dressed star, Douglas Fairbanks Jr, alleged, 'Savile Row has recaptured tailoring supremacy of the globe.'
When the 1960s 'Youthquake' put the focus firmly on the new vogue boutiques of Carnaby Street and King's Road,nike air max 180 bb, two houses were responsible for giving Savile Row the hip replacement it so desperately needed. In 1967 Douglas Hayward opened a tailoring mart on Mount Street and brought style icons such as Michael Caine and Terence Stamp behind to the discreet beauty of hand-cut clothing. Then, in 1969, the Savile Row enfant grim Tommy Nutter and his associate, Edward ######ton, opened Nutters of Savile Row, the most louche, wild and affair bespoke happiness palace, and went on to dress the Beatles, the Rolling Stones and sundry aristocrats. Nutter has been complimented by Timothy Everest,nike air max 90 current huarache, Ozwald Boateng and Richard James, Savile Row's New Establishment tailors, for inspiring them to open houses in the early 1990s that combined bespoke craft and directional fashion. Though initially not welcomed by the old guard, this New Establishment - whose number was strengthened by Carlo Brandelli at Kilgour, Soho tailor Mark Powell and Nick Hart - resuscitated excellent British bespoke after a ten-year in which men's style had been dominated by abroad fashion houses.
In 2004 the Savile Row Bespoke Association was established to protect and subserve the art of bespoke tailoring. The world of men's neatness is another focusing on Savile Row. All the merits bespoke holds dear - respect for the past, believe that quality ambition never be compromised - strike a resounding chord today. Why, it's practitioners cause,0, would a male choose to buy a garment no amplified to his own tastes and expectations?
Adapted from James Sherwood's paperback 'Savile Row: The Master Tailors of British Bespoke' (Thames & Hudson, £45)
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