programming and human factors
by Jeff Atwood Building a Personal computer, Part I
Over another couple of days, I will be creating Scott Hanselman's computer. My goal right now is a lot more modest: develop a minimal system that boots.
I'd prefer to dispel the myth that building computers is risky, or in any way difficult or difficult. If you're able to place collectively a LEGO kit, you'll be able to place jointly a Pc from parts. It's dead straightforward, like snapping jointly so many LEGO bricks. Effectively, primarily. Have you witnessed how complex a few of people LEGO kits are?
Granted, developing pcs just isn't for everyone. You'll find a lot of other stuff you might wish to do using your time, like, say, investing time using your kids, or finding a cure for cancer. That's why folks purchase pre-assembled computer systems from Dell. But when you need fine-grained control over specifically what is inside of your Personal computer, if you need a deeper comprehension of how the hardware matches with each other and operates, then building a Personal computer is really a fun task to acquire on. It is possible to quickly match or defeat Dell's costs typically, whilst developing a superior rig -- and you can understand a thing along the best way, as well.
Here's the complete set of areas we ordered, per the component list. The CPU and memory boxes aren't proven, sadly, simply because I had already opened those from the time I took this photograph. Whoops!
All you need can be a few simple instruments to create this Laptop. I normally use needle-nose pliers, wire cutters, as well as a little phillips screwdriver.
Before we start, allow me to reveal several crucial factors I've learned while developing PCs:
Computer parts are surprisingly durable. They are not fragile. You don't have to baby them. So often I see people handle personal computer parts as if they're sacred, priceless relics. Even though I don't think you should play "catch" along with your new Core 2 Quad processor, it can be also not going to explode into flames in the event you look at it the wrong way. You don't have to tiptoe around the develop. Just be responsible and use common sense. I've done some appalling factors to personal computer hardware in my day, truly boneheaded stuff,
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The risk of static discharge is overblown. I never wear anti-static wristbands, and I've yet to electrocute any components with static electricity. Never. Not once. However, I always touch a metal surface prior to handing pc components-- and that's a good habit for you to cultivate as effectively.
Be patient, and don't force it. Individuals rare times I've damaged components, it's since I rushed myself and forced one thing that I thought should fit-- despite all the warning signs. I've learned through hard experience that "maybe I need to use lots of additional force" is never the right answer when it comes to constructing PCs. Get a deep breath. Count to ten. Refer to the manual, and double-check your work.
I always construct up the motherboard first. Place the motherboard on top of the anti-static bag it came in so it really is easier to work on. Slot in the CPU and snap in the memory sticks. We're using four sticks here, so every slot is populated. However, if you're only using two sticks of memory, be sure they are in the correct paired slots for dual-channel operation. In the event you need advice, the motherboard manual is really a good reference for simple installation steps.
Continue building up the motherboard by installing the CPU cooler. I strongly recommend buying an aftermarket CPU cooler based on a heatpipe tower design, as they wildly outperform the stock Intel coolers. This particular model we chose for Scott's create is the Scythe Mine, but I'm also a fan of the Scythe Infinity and Scythe Ninja Plus. (You can see the Ninja Plus on my work rig.)
It's important to install the CPU cooler correctly, otherwise you risk frying your CPU. Refer closely to the heatsink instructions. Don't forget to place a bit of the heatsink paste (included with the cooler) on the surface of the CPU ahead of installing. These larger heatsinks can be quite heavy, so be sure you've followed the installation instructions to the letter and secured it firmly to the motherboard. Check the orientation of the heatsink so the fan blows "out" if possible, e.g., towards the back of the motherboard, where the case exhaust fans usually are.
Now let's create up the case to accept the motherboard. We chose the Antec P182 case for Scott's build. This case is unique; it is a collaborative venture between the well-known case vendor Antec and Silent Laptop Review, one of my favorite Pc enthusiast websites.
This is the second version of the case, which reflects a number of design tweaks more than the original P180. It is a little expensive, but the P182 oozes quality and attention to detail. It really is probably the single best designed case I've ever worked on. But don't acquire my word for it; see reviews at AnandTech and SilentPCReview.
Some cases are sold with power supplies, but the higher end instances, such as the P182, usually are not. For Scott's construct, we chose the Corsair HX series power supply, which is often a rebranded and tweaked Seasonic. It really is considered one of the best quiet and efficient power supplies on the market, which is why it tops the list of recommended PSUs at SilentPCReview.
I opened the opposite side of the case to gain access to the PSU cage from both sides, installed the PSU in the cage, and threaded the power cables up through the opening in the middle.
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Now install the backplate included with the motherboard. Every backplate is different because every motherboard is different. It can be held in by pressure; just snap it in firmly around the edges.
It's finally time to place the motherboard in the case. Clear room in the case compartment by moving any errant cables out of the best way and stowing them. Make sure the screw holes on the motherboard line up with the pre-installed screw mount standoffs in the case. In our P182, everything matched up perfectly out of the box.
Angle the motherboard down slowly and line up the ports to the backplate,
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Find the packet of screws included with the case, and use the appropriate screws to secure the motherboard to the case standoffs.
Now let's connect the power supply to the motherboard. You'll find two power connectors on modern motherboards, so be sure you've connected them both. Don't worry, the connectors are keyed; you can't install them incorrectly and blow up your Pc. As it is possible to see here, I threaded the power connectors along the back side of the motherboard platform. That is one of the a lot of nifty little design features of the P182 case.
Before we can boot up, we require to connect the power and reset switches so they work. This portion can be a little fiddly. Find the cable with the labelled power, reset,
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Connect each front panel wire to the specific motherboard front panel pins individually. Make sure you connect them to the right location, but orientation of these connectors doesn't matter. This is where the needlenose pliers come in handy unless you have nimble (and tiny) fingers. Why this is not a universally standard keyed block connector by now is beyond me.
We will need some kind of video output to see if our personal computer can boot, so let's install a video card. Scott's not a ################ gamer, so I went for one thing midrange,
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Don't forget to connect the 6-pin video card power connector if your video card requires it! This is often a common mistake that I've made much more than once. Our power supply has modular connectors, so I snapped in one of the two 6-pin power connectors and threaded it up to the video card.
We're ready for the moment of truth: does it boot? I attached a power cord to the power supply, hooked up a utility 15" LCD I keep around for testing, and then pressed the power button.
Success! I know "reboot and select proper boot device" doesn't look like much, but it means everything is working. We've just built a minimal Computer that boots up. It really is a modest step that we'll create on tomorrow.
Getting this program from a pile of parts to bootable state took about two hours. Like I promised -- effortless! Writing it up is taking almost as long as actually doing it. This was a slow construct for me due to the fact I was extra cautious with Scott's elements, and I was stopping to consider frequent pictures. With some practice, it really is possible to create a Laptop much more quickly-- even in under ten minutes.
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